Three panel image. On the left, a pink cross with a skeleton drag queen as part of an art installation. In the middle, an alley in St. Croix with a palm tree and flags hanging from the rooftop. On the right, a sunset view of the Caribbean Sea.

I’ll let you in on a little secret: Saint Croix is an absolute gem.

Nestled in the Caribbean Sea and the largest of the Virgin Islands, it’s a tropical, sun-drenched, and oft-overlooked destination spot. With an overflow of palm trees, temps in the high-80s, and clear blue water, you’d be hard pressed to snap a pic that doesn’t look like a postcard.

As I stepped out of the modest airport, I felt myself immediately surrendering to the humidity, warmth, and breezy concept of “island time.” I’d quickly learn that hours — and people — moved at their own pace here, particularly during Saint Croix’s annual Pride, which coincided with my visit.

The annual celebration began in 2018, marking significant headway for a town with a tiny openly LGBTQ+ population in the Caribbean grappling with itis homophobic history. While their parade couldn’t have lasted more than 20 minutes, there was no shortage of unbridled queer joy as hula-hoopers, flag twirlers, and the bubble-blowing, horse-riding Cruzan Cowgirls passed by.

Three panel image of photos from St. Croix's Pride parade. On the left, a Cruzan cowgirl riding a horsing amidst bubbles. In the middle, a truck with palm trees in its bed and rainbow decorations affixed to the front. On the right, a woman in a rainbow skirt and green tee waving a rainbow flag.
Saint Croix’s Pride parade featured the Cruzan cowgirls, a series of decorated trucks, and was led by proud bisexual board member Jennifer Koockogey-Lajoie.

In my experience, love and acceptance towards visitors was just as prevalent as piña coladas on drink menus. Which is to say, it was everywhere.

I had three and a half days in the historic town of Frederiksted, but I was determined to make it count. Based on my tan lines (and an overpacked carry-on of souvenirs), I’d say the mission was a success. My only regret? Missing out on the island’s infamous ginger-beer guzzling pigs. There’s always next time!

If you can afford a few OOO days, I’ve got you covered with six must-sees for the perfect queer weekend in St. Croix.

The stay: Sand Castle on the Beach

Three panel image. On the left, Sand Castle on the Beach signage. In the middle, sunset view of the hotel's water views. On the right, one of the hotel's aboveground swimming pools.
Sand Castle on the Beach pictured from the front, the beach, and its patio.

As far as accommodations go, you can’t do better than Sand Castle on the Beach, a small, gay-owned hotel right on the water. Although Chris and Ted are its owners, calling them “hosts” feels more appropriate, as they’ve curated a welcoming, clean, and detail-oriented guest experience.

Still, the real scene-stealer is its access to the beach, only steps away from any hotel room. Floating in the bathwater-warm tides, I felt like the only person in the world… aside from any jealous viewers living vicariously through their beach cam. On top of that, the hotel houses two pools (including a clothing optional choice) and a buzzed-about restaurant along the shore.

The culture: Caribbean Museum Center for the Arts

Three panel image. On the left, the front door sign for Caribbean Museum Center of Arts. In the middle and on the right, two art installations by Jose Chacon.
The entrance to Caribbean Museum Center for the Arts and LGBTQ+-centered pieces by artist Jose Chacon.

The island’s go-to art museum is a bright and airy space featuring a well-curated collection of pieces by artists from or living in the Virgin Islands. Be warned, you will not leave the gift shop without buying at least a magnet. During my visit, the “United in Pride” exhibition was on display, showcasing a diverse and thought-provoking selection of works revolving around sexuality, intersectionality, and culture.

Above, artist Jose Chacon‘s “Forbidden Fruit” (middle) which reimagined the Garden of Eden with flamboyant colored fruit and part of his “Dia De Las Drag Queens” (right), inspired by persecution of the LGBTQ+ community and political outcry over gender and drag.

The day trip: Buck Island

Three panel image. On the left, a fallen tree branch covered in conch shells. In the middle, a deserted beach with patches of grass peeking through. On the right, a man comically looking into the camera wearing a large snorkel mask.
National park Buck Island during the afternoon, and a snorkel mask model prepares to dive.

This JFK-approved national park is a short catamaran away from St. Croix. The gorgeous and nearly untouched island, covered in conch shells and sea turtles, was the perfect place to cosplay my Survivor contestant fantasies.

Nevertheless, the true beauty lies below the water in the island’s expansive coral grottoes. You’ll have to wear an unflattering snorkel, but swimming amongst the bustling marine life was well worth the copious amounts of salt water I swallowed.

In fact, the schools of fish and crazy-colored creatures were so transcendent, I didn’t notice an epic sunburn developing on the back of my neck. Thankfully, our tour guides at Caribbean Sea Adventures provided a quick distraction via an onboard cooler of cold rum punch.

The staple: Point Udall

Three panel image of Point Udall. On the left, its sundial pictured with the sun peeking through. In the middle, the monument pictured at a distance. On the right, a grassy cliff and the surrounding sea.
Point Udall and its surrounding cliffside views, pictured in the midafternoon.

On top of a hill, amidst stunning ocean views (and a stone’s throw away from what apparently used to be a not-so-secret nude beach) is Point Udall, the easternmost point of the United States. The elevated spot, marked by a sundial, is a geography nerd’s dream. It’s also not a bad place to get a photo for the ‘Gram.

The relaxation: Dorsch Beach

Three panel image of Dorsch Beach. On the left, a blue sky and a wave washing in. In the middle, an orange colored sunset shines over the water. On the right, the beach pictured with an assortment of umbrellas and lounge chairs.
Dorsch Beach pictured during the day and at sunset.

This sandy stretch in downtown Frederiksted is regarded by locals as the best beach in town. Give it one picturesque sunset, and you’ll agree wholeheartedly.

Blocking out a few hours to fully appreciate the scene is a must. I wish I could say I read a book on a lounge chair or found my inner zen in the waves. But in actuality, I mostly just stared out at the sea, in constant disbelief of the beauty. (And OK, taking a few thirst traps in the rooster-adorned swim trunks I snagged from local outfitters Southern Saint.)

The libations: Cruzan pours

Two panel image. On the left, a frozen pina colada with a cherry on top in a glass cup. On the right, an orange can of Leatherback Brewing Co's Beach Life blonde ale.
A frozen pina colada from Sand Castle on the Beach’s restaurant and a can of Leatherback Brewing Co’s blonde ale.

It doesn’t take long to become acquainted with the traditional “Cruzan pour” — read: a much heavier than anticipated serving of liquor. Considering the island is home to Cruzan Rum, a.k.a “the most honored rum distillery in the world,” there’s no short supply of spirits. For those partial to beer, the island’s Leatherback Brewing Co. will certainly satisfy. And the pervasive humidity encourages a “drink-before-it-melts” attitude.

As far as caffeine goes, I snagged a delightful iced coffee from Polly’s At the Pier, which had some free-roaming chickens. That being said, the most important beverage you’ll need is water. If you’re going to see it all in one weekend, you’ve got to stay hydrated!

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